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Using Milky Way’s Candle Molds is as Easy as 1-2-3!
Our candle molds are produced using sturdy 70-mil styrene and can handle pour temperatures of 200 degrees without warping. The finished candles weigh a little over two pounds. Please read our easy 1-2-3 instructions for best results.
Materials:
- Candle Mold
- Candle Mold Stand
- Wax
- Wick
- 4 Paper Clips
- Masking Tape
- Wooden Skewer
Procedure:
- Preparing the Mold
First spray with mold release, then lay one end of the wick in the wick slot and tape to the outside of the mold. Pull the other end of the wick through the pour spout.
For soy-based candles, try using a 45-ply flat braid; for most paraffin waxes and palms, try a 1/0 square braid. You may have to experiment a bit with wick sizes, since the needed size is partially dependent upon the specific wax type.
Securely fasten the two halves of the mold together using masking tape; both taping and clamping works even better. Wind the excess wick (spout end) around a wooden skewer or flat wire. Use a plastic pail or a Milky Way candle mold stand to prop up the mold.
- Pouring the Candle
Use only wax designated for pillars. Many candlemaking problems are caused by using the wrong kind of wax.
Slowly pour melted wax into the mold until the wax comes 1/8” up the pour spout. Wax should be poured at the temperature specified by the wax manufacturer. Gently tap the sides of the molds to dislodge any air bubbles stuck on the relief surface. Take particular care to tap the top edges of the candle cavity; air bubbles like lodging in the corners. Slightly down-tilt the side you’re tapping to aid the release of the bubbles.
As the wax cools, a skin will form on the surface of the wax. Take a chopstick and poke down into the wax along the sides of the wick; this allows the wax to shrink without pulling the wick off center. You may need to repeat this process 2 or 3 times. When the mold is cool to the touch, pour more wax into the well that’s formed in the center of the candle. Allow to cool. A third pouring may be necessary to fill the well.
- Demolding the Candle
After the wax completely cools, remove the tape and gently pull the mold halves away from the candle. Use a paring knife to remove side seams.
To level the bottom, gently press into a hot iron skillet or fry pan until the uneven surface melts away.
Leakage problems? Due to the large size of the mold, leakage may occur particularly with very hot wax pours.
If you’re having leakage problems, use duct tape instead of masking tape. First apply one length of tape flush with the cavity itself. Since the flat lip of the mold is 1 1/4” wide, standard 2” wide duct tape will cover the seam plus ¾” of the other side of the mold.
Now apply another piece of duct tape to the other side of the mold in the same fashion, one edge flush with the cavity. You will then have 2 thicknesses of duct tape overlapping at the seam, which should create a leak-proof seal. Reinforce with binder clips.
For best results, burn the candles no more than 3 hours at a time.
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